Review excerpt: RyuGin 2.0 represents a major upgrade. At last, chef Yamamoto has a setting worthy of his culinary status, and of the well-heeled clientele who will favor this more salubrious and central location.

Review excerpt: Sobagami is a soba noodle specialist, but it is also an offshoot of the very genteel Ginza Kamiya, a high-end kappō that takes pride in doing things the right way.

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