Review excerpt: Wakon is the first offshoot in Tokyo of Sushi Masuda, whose chef, Rei Masuda, trained for nine years under legendary sushi master Jiro Ono — the eponymous star of that documentary.

Review excerpt: RyuGin 2.0 represents a major upgrade. At last, chef Yamamoto has a setting worthy of his culinary status, and of the well-heeled clientele who will favor this more salubrious and central location.

Review excerpt: Sobagami is a soba noodle specialist, but it is also an offshoot of the very genteel Ginza Kamiya, a high-end kappō that takes pride in doing things the right way.