Review excerpt: Nukui’s ramen and tsukemen (dipping noodles) are rich, honest and wholesome. While the soup is thick — in the popular tonkotsu-gyokai (pork and seafood) style — the noodles are silky-smooth. He also makes a spicy variant (kara-ramen or kara-tsukemen) that is especially comforting in the winter months. And in summer, his hiyashi niku soba (chilled noodles with ground pork) are always light and appetizing. But what really sets Menya Nukaji apart is its mellow style, and a soundtrack of roots reggae, 1960s and ’70s soul and R&B.