It would be hard to find a better example in Tokyo of the genre best described as "designer washoku." Too often, after bitter experience, we are tempted to use that epithet as a sneering pejorative. Not so here. Higashi-yama is actually the creation of a design company but, we are happy to report, it rewrites the definition. Here is a place where the food is executed with as much poise and creativity as the exceptional setting.