Forget the stereotypes — Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara is no ordinary yakiniku barbecue restaurant. It is spacious and chic, with a stylish color scheme of red, black and silver. Extractor fan chimneys gleam with purpose. The tables are spotless and there’s absolutely no smoke in the air. But what really sets it apart is the quality of the meat and the meticulous attention to detail brought by owner Kentaro Nakahara. Unlike most chefs, he sources his wagyu directly, working through wholesalers to check the provenance, bloodline and — most crucially — flavor. Scrutinize that menu again. It covers the full gamut, from innards and offal to standard kalbi ribs, all the way up to sirloin and other super-premium cuts. If you want to try a bit of almost everything, the place to start is with the omakase tasting menu, featuring slices of seven different grilled items. But be sure to sample the starters too.