Review excerpt: The meal at Sushi Gyoten opens with a succession of tsumami (appetizers), both raw and cooked. These include chinmi (unusual “delicacies”), to munch on with your opening sake, including karasumi (bottarga, cured mullet roe), uni (sea urchin) or slices of excellent, succulent cooked abalone. Gyoten is justifiably proud of the premium hotaru-ika (firefly squid) he sources direct from Toyama Bay in spring and summer. He also serves steaming-hot chawanmushi (savory seafood custard) and small portions of fish that he grills over charcoal in one corner of his kitchen.
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