Although Sakuya is open until 2 p.m., lunch may end prematurely if the food runs out. Lunch is omakase (chef’s choice), and though some dishes may not suit all palates, nothing is too challenging. Sakuya is not out to shock — tradition is the guide here. Lunch arrives on a lacquered tray. The main dish, udon (wheat flour noodles) in thick, hot ankake soup, was judicious considering the recent spell of cold weather. Egg yolk and whites as well as morsels of different fish were suspended throughout the glutinous soup, which was thickened with katakuriko (vegetable starch). It was a sweet, comforting dish and one that’s impossible to eat without slurping. Between that and the kaisendon (seafood rice bowl), were a selection of appetizers: spinach served in a light dashi and soy sauce broth, potato salad with chunks of apple and okara (soy pulp), and tofu. The one thing common to all three was lightness. The mayonnaise, like the soy sauce, was used sparingly, but in the case of the okara, I would have liked a little more depth. Rounding out the lunch tray was the seafood rice bowl, with cuts of tuna and red snapper served over slightly warm rice topped with laver.