Within the vast array of culinary techniques, steaming has an unfortunate reputation as dull, unfashionable and fit only for dieters. It certainly lacks the vibrancy and drama of, say, deep-frying in sizzling oil or grilling on a barbecue.

A visit to Beppu — where food is cooked in piping-hot jets of geothermal steam — might just change your mind.

With more than 2,000 sources within city limits, Beppu is Japan’s undisputed hot-spring mecca, and the Kannawa Onsen district is at its heart. While the area is most famous today for its aptly named “hells” (springs so hot they are for viewing only), for centuries Kannawa was the preferred destination for those looking to soak away their ailments in mineral-rich waters. Besides endless baths for all and sundry, there was another happy byproduct of all that volcanic heat: jigoku-mushi, or hell-steaming.