The culinary tradition of shōjin ryōri, a vegetarian cuisine that arose due to the dietary restrictions of Zen Buddhist monks, as well as prolonged periods in Japanese history in which eating meat was discouraged or outlawed, has left the country with a variety of vegetable-based dishes that act as sources of protein.
An ingredient in one such dish is Kōya dōfu (freeze-dried tofu also known as kōri dōfu). Dating back to at least the Kamakura Period (1192-1333), Kōya dōfu was traditionally made by slicing firm tofu, placing it in rows on boxes lined with straw and letting it sit outside during freezing temperatures during the winter. The frozen tofu was then hung up out of the sun to dry. Unlike fresh tofu, which goes off very quickly, Kōya dōfu can be kept in a cool, dry place without refrigeration for a considerable amount of time.
As noted above, the Japanese use two terms to refer to freeze-dried tofu. The more common one, Kōya dōfu, comes from the theory that the process was invented by monks on Mount Koya in present-day Wakayama Prefecture. However, there is also evidence that frozen tofu existed in the Shinshu (present-day Nagano Prefecture) and Tohoku regions of the country where it was called shimi dōfu (frozen tofu). The “shi” in “shimi” is written using the same kanji as “kō” in “kōri,” accounting for the other term. If you are interested in learning more about the history of the food, check out Akira Yamashita’s “Kōri dōfu no Rekishi” (“The History of Frozen Tofu”), published in 1962.
If you’re going to use Kōya dōfu then it needs to be soaked in water before it is cooked, and the water needs to be squeezed out well to eliminate its very slight odor. Afterward, the tofu becomes like a sponge, ready to absorb flavors. In this week’s recipe I have infused the tofu with an umami-rich liquid to pack it with taste, and have treated it much like you might use chicken in a stir-fry.
Recipe:
Serves 2
Prep: 25 mins., plus soaking time
Cook: 15 mins.
Ingredients:
- 3 dried shiitake mushrooms
- 2 pieces Kōya dōfu (freeze-dried tofu)
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- ½ teaspoon konbu (kelp) dashi stock powder
- around 5 tablespoons potato starch (katakuriko) or cornstarch
- 1 piece ginger
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 small red chili pepper
- 2 medium bok choy
- 2 tablespoons sesame oil
- salt and pepper
Directions:
- At least an hour before making the meal (or the night before), soak the dried shiitake mushrooms in enough water to cover.
- Pour enough warm water (at about 50 degrees Celsius) over the Kōya dōfu to cover. Leave to soak for 10 to 15 minutes, turning once. Squeeze out tightly and cut into bite-size pieces.
- Drain the soaked shiitake mushrooms and squeeze them out tightly. Reserve the soaking water. If necessary, add enough water to bring the soaking water up to 200 milliliters. Combine this with the soy sauce, mirin and konbu dashi stock powder, and then add the cut up Kōya dōfu. Leave to soak for 10 minutes.
- Finely mince the ginger and garlic. Separate the bok choy leaves, and cut up the white parts into chunks. De-seed and finely chop the chili pepper.
- Drain the tofu pieces lightly, and coat with three or four tablespoons of potato starch or cornstarch. Reserve the soaking liquid. Heat up a frying pan with the sesame oil over medium-high heat. Pan fry the Kōya dōfu, turning the pieces to brown all sides. Take the browned pieces out of the pan and reserve.
- Add the ginger, garlic and chili pepper to the frying pan and stir-fry briefly. Add the bok choy and stir-fry until wilted. Season with salt and pepper.
- Dissolve a teaspoon of potato starch or cornstarch into the reserved soaking liquid. Clear a space in the frying pan and add the liquid. Add the Kōya dōfu back to the pan. Stir it until the liquid has thickened slightly and coats the ingredients. Serve with rice.
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