My first few years in Japan saw me imbibe more than my fair share of substandard sake. This self-flagellation included everything from single-serve 7-Eleven cups to atsukan (hot sake) at karaoke, the cost-to-alcohol ratio always the chief consideration.
In large part, it took the generous tutelage of a befriended sushi chef to open my eyes to the nuance of nihonshu (Japanese rice wine) and the pairing possibilities therein.
Nihonshu is deceptively simple. The terroir that the water and rice each impart are important. However, the most complex flavor component, arguably, is the kōji, the cultivated mold that converts rice starches to sugar (via the amylase enzyme). This saccharified starter is then fermented to become alcohol in a beer-like process. Floral or fruit notes? Those come from kōji.