Make sure you have plenty of time when you arrive at Est. You will want to look around, get your bearings and, above all, take in the remarkable vista that greets you as you emerge from the elevator.

You are up on the 39th floor, within the portals of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi, and you have the city at your feet. The Imperial Palace lies below, with the metropolis sprawling to the far horizon where, if the weather gods are kind, you may spot the unmistakable silhouette of Mount Fuji.

That’s the aperitif: now it’s time to eat. Est lies farther back on the same floor, reached via a short passage lined with books on food and culture. By the time you reach the elegant dining room — with massive west and south-facing picture windows that encompass both Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower — your appetite is well primed for the creative modern French cuisine of chef Guillaume Bracaval.