There's something supremely satisfying about a good bowl of laksa lemak. It's one of those dishes that seem so simple — basically noodles in a spiced-up, coconut-creamy soup, along with seafood and other ingredients. But getting the balance of flavors right is clearly harder than it looks, otherwise we'd have a lot more places here of Mu-Hung's quality.
For close on 20 years, this friendly, no-frills diner has been the go-to destination for Singapore street-level cooking — the kind of wholesome dishes you find at hawker centers and food courts in the island state — at least for the lucky people who live in western Tokyo.
From the start, Mu-Hung's proud claim to fame has been that it was the first place in the city to serve Hainan jīfan, the classic rice and chicken dish that is one of the de facto national dishes of Singapore. It's still one of the best of its kind in Tokyo. But there are more unusual items on the menu that make the restaurant even more worth a special journey.