The Daikanyama district continues to mushroom new developments, most of them notable more for their architecture than their carefully curated content. It would be tempting to lump the new Kashiyama building in that category, but there is definitely gastronomic substance to be found along with its undeniable style.
The fourth-floor restaurant, Coteau, lives up to its name — French for “hill” — with picture windows and an open veranda boasting vistas over the Daikanyama rooftops. What makes it really worth knowing, though, is the affordable (for the neighborhood and demographic) ¥6,800 set menu, and the fact that the kitchen is overseen by chef Yosuke Suga, whose high-end Sugalabo in Kamiyacho is one of the finest and hardest-to-book reservations in the city.
Meanwhile, down at basement level, the spacious, airy Kashiyama Daikanyama Cafe offers lighter fare — simple salads, a satisfying gyū-katsu (beef cutlet) sandwich and, most notably, an exceptional Basque cheesecake that is baked in-house.
It’s very different from the usual light, two-bites-and-they’re-gone slices found elsewhere. This Basque version is seriously rich, moist and large enough to consider splitting between two — that is, until you take your first bite and then refuse to relinquish your grip. As an extra bonus, a small pot of jam — raspberry, blueberry or lemon — is served on the side to add a contrasting accent.
Daikanyamacho 14-18, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0034; 03-5784-1670; kashiyamadaikanyama.com; open daily 11 a.m.-8 p.m. (L.O.); food from ¥1,600; cheesecake ¥800; nearest station Daikanyama; nonsmoking; major credit cards; English menu; some English spoken
IN FIVE EASY PIECES WITH TAKE 5