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Shibuya’s Kamiyamacho district continues to bubble up with worthy new dining venues. One of the most intriguing new arrivals on its increasingly popular shopping street — the long, straight artery connecting Tokyu Department Store with Yoyogi-Koen — is OnJapan Cafe&.

The mission statement at this spacious, easy-going diner/cafe/event space is to spread the word about traditional Japanese food culture. In particular, products prepared with kōji, the cultured rice that underpins sake, miso, soy sauce, mirin and many other fermented products.

At lunchtime — officially through to 4 p.m., though they may run out early — you can drop in for excellent, wholesome teishoku (set meals) of rice and vegetables, with simple main dishes of pork, chicken or fish, their flavors boosted by the aforementioned seasons. A number of vegetarian options are available, as is brown rice.

In the evening, the focus is more on fermentation in its liquid forms, specifically sake and shōchū, which are served with a selection of umami-rich side dishes and tsumami (sake snacks).

Should you wish to immerse yourself more deeply in the beguiling subject of fermentation, check the OnJapan Facebook page for workshops and other events organized by the cafe.

Set lunch from ¥1,100; dinner a la carte; English menu; some English spoken

In line with COVID-19 guidelines, the government is strongly requesting that residents and visitors exercise caution if they choose to visit bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.

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