If you judge restaurants solely by their architecture and decor, you'd probably finger 336 Ebisu as a temple of modern Scandinavian cuisine. The interior is so simple and airy — all big windows, curving arches, light-wood furniture, unadorned walls — that you expect dishes of Nordic precision. You'd be wrong.
One look at the menu, one glance down the wine list, and it's clear that 336 Ebisu is of French lineage. But it's not the classic version, with pretensions of Gallic grandeur. Nor does it evoke the bustling, no-frills virtues of old-style brasserie culture.
The inspiration at this calm, welcoming little restaurant on the nether side of Yebisu Garden Place is the new wave of Parisian neo-bistros, where quality cooking and a well curated cellar are de rigeur but dressing up and putting on airs is decidedly passe. You go to eat and enjoy, not to see or be seen. And the wine is picked and priced for your enjoyment, not for name-brand status.