The sweaty months of July through September in Tokyo can evoke a sense of climatic dread among visitors and residents alike, not to mention palpitation-inducing budgetary concerns. There's a widespread misconception that summer in the metropolis either translates to woeful binge-watching of TV series beneath the air conditioner — with the odd trip to the convenience store to buy matcha-flavored ice cream and pay the steep electricity bill — or costly escapes to cool oases both domestic and overseas. But this time of year can be more fun, and friendly to your bank balance, than you think. Here are a few suggestions to make the most of summer in 2017.
Things to do
Catch a sunrise: The sun is up around 4:30 a.m., and you might as well be too. Make like something out of a nature documentary and watch the sun rise over the city while the air is still at its pre-heat setting. If you don't have access to a rooftop, head to Kasai Rinkai Park on the Edo River to see the sky change color. The early morning is also a good time of day to pop into a shrine or temple, as some of them open at dawn. The grand-daddy of such places, Meiji Shrine, is one of these early-bird hot spots.
From there, try the ¥140 train hack. The ultimate in shoestring sightseeing, this involves purchasing the lowest-price ticket for JR train lines (usually ¥140) and then take in the changing landscapes of Tokyo and the countryside beyond from a comfortable, air-conditioned carriage. It's called ōmawari jōsha, popularized by densha otaku (train geeks), and it's a great way to get out of the city. You just need to keep a few rules in mind: You can't exit at any stations along the way; you need to finish your journey at a different station to the one you started at; and you have to limit your ride to the suburban areas of big cities. It's also recommended that you plan your route in advance, in case a JR employee asks what you're doing — don't worry, they're generally onboard with the business of ōmawari jōsha.
Another cheap adventure is visiting some of Tokyo's wackier museums and galleries. If you've ever wanted to learn about the history of two of society's greatest vices, gain insights into the world of worms, see kites from old-school Japan or get a look at the wonder-toilets of the future, you're in the right place to do just that. Among Tokyo's more unusual spots are the Tobacco and Salt Museum in Sumida Ward, the Meguro Parasitological Museum, the Kite Museum in Nihonbashi and the Toto Showroom in Shinjuku. Admission is either minimal or free. If you're also a fan of the more usual museums, a Grutto Pass is a wise investment. Priced at ¥2,000, it gives you either discounted or free entry to 80 museums and galleries for a two-month period. You can find these passes at major tourist information centers.
You haven't experienced summer in Japan until you've danced a Bon or Awa odori (dance) at a local festival. It's officially festival season, and neighborhood parks come alive at night with lanterns, food stalls, music and movement. Forget twerking, now's the time to get those two left feet into the groove of more traditional dances. Spectators are routinely encouraged to join in, so just wait for the invitation and then go with the flow. The o-Bon period in August is when these festivals peak (this year it's officially Aug. 13 to 16), with the mega-event that is the Koenji Awa Odori festival taking place on the last weekend of the month (Aug. 26 and 27).
Finally, evenings in July and August are often filled with fireworks — or fire flowers, which is the literal translation of the Japanese word hanabi. Tokyo has a long history of mind-blowing pyrotechnics, with the Sumida River Fireworks Festival (July 29) approaching its 300th incarnation and attracting over 1 million viewers. If you don't have access to a rooftop in Asakusa, or aren't keen on the crowds, you can turn to the Katsushika (July 25), Itabashi (Aug. 5), Edo River (Aug. 5) and Tama River (Aug. 19) festivals instead, or enjoy the numerous smaller-scale events that happen all over the municipality.
Eating out
The notion that good grub in Tokyo is out of the reach of most budget travelers needs to be put to bed, post-haste. There are heaps of affordable chain eateries, where you can fill up for ¥1,000 or less at any time of day, and if you follow what's becoming known as the golden cheapo rule in Japan, you'll find that you can scoop even a gourmet meal for about the same. The words you need to commit to memory? Posh lunch, cheap dinner. Repeat.
Many restaurants have superb lunch specials, where you can feast on dishes very similar to those they serve up for supper, for a fraction of the price. This includes several Michelin-starred joints. Regardless of whether you're a gourmet or aren't exactly an epicurean, being able to experience some of the world's finest dining for under $20 is an opportunity not to be missed. Strap on your sweat towel and seek out Kyourakutei Soba in Shinjuku and Kien in Akasaka as starting points in your culinary adventures.
You can also indulge in the rooftop beer gardens that do business atop many department stores and other commercial buildings in the summer months. Some charge a steep all-you-can-drink fee, while others let you kick back with just a brew or two to enjoy the vibes and view. Try the Omohara Beer Forest on top of the Tokyu Plaza Building in Omotesando or the Forest Beer Garden at Meiji Shrine.
The chill factor
When that sauna feeling gets a bit much, you can cool down at one of the many swimming spots in and around Tokyo. Most wards have a municipal pool that you can use for an hour or two for as low as a few hundred yen. There are also, of course, private water parks, but these can be crowded and pricey. It's often cheaper and more chilled, to head for a river or the beach. Secret (meaning only somewhat quieter) sand and sea favorites include Hayama in neighboring Kanagawa Prefecture, and Onjuku in Chiba Prefecture.
Carey Finn writes for Tokyo Cheapo, a site devoted to those looking to make their yen go further in the capital. For more information, visit www.tokyocheapo.com.
Tokyo Cheapo’s tips to survive the season
Members of the Tokyo Cheapo team weigh in on ways to enjoy the summer:
“Relax on the rooftop of Seibu Ikebukuro department store. You can buy beer in the basement stores and pick up marked-down food from the deli after 6 p.m. Alternatively, the beer/sake garden at the Ozawa Brewery near Ome Station is amazing. There’s a cool breeze and a river flowing past.”
Greg Lane, co-founder
“Go out to Zaimokuza Beach in Kamakura. It’s a short ride from Shibuya and less crowded than most beaches. You can also swim in the river out in Okutama, which is still Tokyo. Take the train from Shinjuku, alight at Hatonosu, and walk down to the river trail.”
Chris Kirkland, co-founder
“Look for a yukata (summer kimono) at Yanaka Ginza. I found one there for under ¥1,000. Also, look out for free drinks at festivals — and free fans, too!”
Adriana Mazza, editor
“I burn like white bread, so I like to visit indoor theme parks (like Joypolis) and spas, since everyone else is outside enjoying the sun. But if I have to go out, the Tama River is awesome.”
Aaron Baggett, contributor
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