At Gomachu, tofu is fun, and possibly even exciting. It may even be sexy — the jury is still out.

I realize I'm pushing the boat on a foodstuff that, while globally praised for its nutritional value, has about as much visual appeal as a manila envelope. But something transformative happens to tofu when it meets goma (sesame seeds): it kicks off its earnest, humorless uniform and embraces a host of possibilities.

Of course, there is much more to Gomachu besides tofu. It's essentially an izakaya bar with a generous menu, but before we start with the other dishes, let's deal with the tofu. The way its presented at Gomachu is a far cry from the average stodgy packet of supermarket fare. Instead, it's looks more like a scoop of gelato. If this tofu could talk, one gets the feeling it would speak one of the European romance languages.