Regrets? I have a ton. Here's one: I didn't get to eat bear meat at Godan Miyazawa. Perhaps one of the drawbacks of the omakase (chef's selection) here is that there's no actual menu to provide information about what's being served. Trusting your chef is a small price to pay for an elaborate multicourse meal that marries skill with tradition. Besides, there is a certain pleasure in anticipating what you're about to eat when the chef throws tradition out the door and lets a bear in — if you're lucky.

Restaurateur and chef Masato Miyazawa opened Godan Miyazawa nearly two years ago. It's the younger sister of his older restaurant Jiki Miyazawa, which has held a Michelin star since 2012. Godan was awarded its own last year. Beyond the stars, the two Miyazawas share almost as much as conjoined twins. The only difference? The atmosphere at Godan is a little less holy; chef Miyazawa is at home here and, although he's reticent, his relaxed manner sets the restaurant's tone.

My accidental lunch partner was a longtime regular at Jiki, but it was the first time either of us had visited Godan. There are two lunch options, around ¥6,264 and ¥9,504, and three dinner options starting at ¥10,800 and climbing to ¥19,440. Whichever option you choose, there are a number of signature Miyawaza dishes common to both of the chef's restaurants. Perhaps in time Godan will separate from its sibling.

Meals commence with a sweet sake aperitif served in a petite wooden saucer. Inevitably you'll meet Miyazawa's specialty: grilled goma-dofu (sesame tofu). This bite-sized portion of marshmallow-like tofu is smothered in sesame seeds. Miyazawa serves this throughout the year, adding seasonal touches such as fukinoto, an edible flower bud served in early spring.

The penultimate dish of rice, a variety of tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and miso soup, involves a Miyazawan innovation to the tradition of kaiseki (Japanese multicourse cuisine). He starts with a spoonful of undercooked, soggy rice — and this is by design. There follows a progression of servings in which the rice is cooked a little more each time. The idea here is that you appreciate the rice cooked at different stages. It's a novel way to appreciate the history of a country that owes so much to rice cultivation.

Before I get to the bear, the sashimi serving of hirame (flounder), served in a light soy sauce dressing was luxuriant, all the more so for its minimal use of ingredients. My nabe (hot-pot) included snow white ayu, krill-sized sweet fish, in a steaming bowl of spring greens. My dining partner received the same pot, but with bear meat instead of the fish.

The meat wasn't unlike wild boar to look at, but richer and darker. Sadly, that's all I can say about it.

The end of the meal was signaled by a bowl of matcha — another staple that's common to Jiki and Godan — prepared by the head chef in tea ceremony fashion.

Whichever of Miyazawa's restaurants you opt for, the reward is a rich and resourceful meal.