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If someone were to ask me where the best place in Osaka to go for sushi at 5 a.m. is, I would answer — immediately and unequivocally — that it’s Endo’s. Of course, it might also be the only place open at such an ungodly hour, owing to its location at the Osaka central market.

On a recent visit one frigid Monday around lunchtime, the market was empty. In fact, the only signs of life were at an eastern flank of the market near a channel of the Yodo River, where a line of people had formed outside a small parade of restaurants. Typically, the queue was for my destination. I can’t stand waiting, but I suffered it for the sake of culinary journalism — and a good meal.

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