The Monocle Cafe — the first in the world created by the eponymous international lifestyle magazine — looks just the way you’d expect. Sleek but comfortable, with light-wood furniture in a modern Scandinavian vein, it blends in perfectly with the designer boutiques inside Hankyu Men’s Tokyo, the department store’s freshly refurbished flagship in Yurakucho.

The food menu covers an enterprising range, from contemporary continental salads — ratatouille and couscous; zucchini and pecorino; a beautiful mix of beet, red onion and feta cheese — to American deli staples, such as meat loaf or Reuben sandwiches, and homegrown Japanese favorites like curry rice and pork katsu sandwiches. There are North European influences too, notably the toast skagen (above), a lightly browned square of white shoku-pan bread topped with shrimp salad and garnished tastefully with orange kazunoko fish roe.

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