Spring may not be here for real just yet, but it's never too early to celebrate the first al fresco lunch of the year. So when last week's unseasonably warm spell arrived we knew exactly where to go — into the heart of the city, to grab an outside table at A16.

We had two compelling reasons for this choice. The casual Californian-Italian cooking at this San Francisco transplant hits exactly the right note for a light, leisurely meal at any time of day. And the location is about as good as it gets in central Tokyo.

A16 takes its name from the autostrada that cuts across southern Italy from Naples to Puglia. Just as at the parent restaurant in San Francisco, the idea is to showcase the hearty, healthy cooking of that region, especially the province of Campania. That means plenty of good antipasti, pasta and wine, all presented in easygoing U.S. West Coast style.