Down in Yokohama they're partying like it's 1859. It's been exactly 150 years since Japan's largest port — indeed the country itself — was fully opened to foreign trade. Earlier this month we went down to the old Red Brick Warehouses to marvel at massive mechanical spiders, France's contributions to the celebration, and to enjoy the breeze off the bay. Needless to say, we lingered to eat.
Until recently, there was little dining of note along that stretch of waterfront save for soulless tourist outlets and fast-food franchises. But things have improved massively since the 2004 opening of the underground Minato-Mirai Line, especially around Bashamichi Station.
A great find is the excellent new Araiya, an offshoot of one of Yokohama's most venerable establishments. Since 1895, Araiya's main restaurant in Akebonocho has served one of the specialties of the city: beef. These days sukiyaki, shabu shabu ("swished" meat) and even steak are its most popular offerings, but the dish that put Araiya on the culinary map — and Yokohama too — was gyu-nabe, the original beef hot pot.