Sunlight filters through fresh young foliage, dappling mossy thatched roofs. On the hills above, the wind sighs through stands of pine. In the background, birdsong and the constant trickling of a mountain stream; outside our wood-framed window, blossom floats on the surface of a placid pond. Spring has arrived at the timeless rustic setting of Ukai Toriyama.
Tucked away along a narrow fold in the foothills of Mount Takao, to the far west of the metropolis, officially this is still Tokyo, but effectively you have escaped to the most remarkable of rural idylls.
At the front gate, you are greeted by the sight of a stately minka, a traditional timber-framed farmhouse with steep roofs and wooden gables. This is not the restaurant; it is just the reception area, where you rest, sipping tea and admiring the view, allowing the dust of your journey to settle. From here you will be ushered through the lush garden, along narrow paths and over steppingstones to your own private dining area.