Only a decade ago, adventure and good value were tough to find in Japan's wine market. Wine lovers traded news of secret finds. We carried treasured bottles back from trips overseas. We called up buddies and huddled together to relish the long-saved treat of a wine unavailable in Japan. The rituals bore similarities with an underground samizdat culture. We bonded over scarcity; our eyes turned moist when we recalled a sip of Zinfandel.
These days, no one should complain: Tokyo has a superb, diverse wine scene. Champagne is less expensive here than in the U.S. -- and often even cheaper than in France. Even after the end of the frenzied '90s wine boom, we're blessed with a cityscape of wine bars, wine shops and an ever-expanding selection. But old habits die hard, and for good reason: Wine is meant to be shared. There's a thrilling tingle when someone turns you on to a beautiful, affordable wine.
Every season, we survey people whose work in Japan's wine-and-food sector keeps them tasting widely and without inhibition. Our last column featured their tips for springtime wines from France -- showing that good value can be found from classic, venerated Old World viticultural terrain. This week, our experts take us to Australian and New Zealand vineyards in search of affordable quality for warm-weather wines.