NAHA, Okinawa Pref. -- The beaches are Hawaiian, the suburbs look American, the marketplaces resemble Asian bazaars, and the omiyage-ya are definitely Japanese. But Okinawa, as any resident is keen to tell you, has a personality all its own.
Before being conquered by Shimazu Iehisa, daimyo of Kagoshima, in 1609, annexed as a prefecture in 1879, occupied by America in 1945, then returned to Japan in 1972, Okinawa enjoyed a long period of independence as the Kingdom of Ryukyu.
The Ryukyu king built Shuri Castle just east of modern-day Naha, and this is a good place to start exploring the island. Constructed sometime in the 15th century, the castle reveals a strong Chinese influence in its vermilion-lacquered pavilions. The red-and-white stripes in the courtyard were made to make it easier for ranked retainers to line up in order of precedence.