Once again it's time to say Happy Chinese New Year.

I just realized that this occasion was fast approaching a few days ago, halfway through a voluminous "single" portion of piquant pork and vegetables at my friendly neighborhood Sichuan restaurant.

To start the celebration early, I ordered the blanc de blanc white table wine, having seen nothing on the wine list that I usually like with Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese food -- no traminer, no sauvingnon blanc, no spicier chenin blane or pinot gris. My first sip made me wish I'd ordered something else, even mineral water. This one should have been renamed bland de bland.