The inquiry, from a regular reader, sounded more plaintive than optimistic. Is there anywhere in town that serves real, authentic Moroccan food?

The object of his desire was not so much couscous, which these days is not so hard to find at Tokyo's more sophisticated French (or fusion) restaurants, but the rich, tender stews of meat or fish known in North Africa as tagines.

The die was cast, no other excuse was needed. It was time to head off again to Morocco -- not the country itself, but the excellent little restaurant of the same name tucked away in the rather less-exotic climes of Minato-ku. Having eaten there several times after it first opened, about two years ago, we had not been back and weren't even sure it still existed. Thankfully it does, and the food is as simple and satisfying as ever.