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“Cod sperm sacs, I had that,” muses James Murphy, multitalented record producer, DJ, founder of New York’s DFA Records and mastermind behind dance-punk phenomenon LCD Soundsystem. Apparently, despite averaging two or three trips a year to Japan, the country — in particular its restaurants — still has the capacity to throw up surprises.

“Sometimes they’ll try to be really accommodating,” he continues, “but sometimes you’ll get a chef who’s just totally, ‘F**k you, you’re getting cod sperm sacs,’ ” Murphy continues, although it takes more than that to faze him. “That attitude,” he concludes, “actually appeals to me much more, being from New York.”

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