Kichijoji offers more jazz per tsubo than almost any place in the city. Not only are rents cheaper than inside the Yamanote Line, but small-niche businesses seem to thrive here. Teeming with shops, restaurants and clubs, it is dynamic without being overwhelming. With clubs presenting live jazz every night and several of the best jazz kissaten and bars in Tokyo, Kichijoji offers affordable, high-quality venues all within walking distance of each other. The easy, neighborhood feel lets those interested (and those already obsessed) catch a live set at one jazz club, then head to another, then move on to a jazz kissaten to hear it played on audiophile-quality sound systems. For those in need of music to take home, Kichijoji also has more than its share of jazz record stores.

Cool joints -- Live jazz

Sometime -- Nearly every jazz musician in town has performed at Sometime. The club has live jazz every night, always at 1,500 yen for even the biggest names, nearly half the charge elsewhere in town. With a kitschy antique interior, great service and reasonable prices, it's easy to get quickly into the vibe. Musicians play from the center of the club, with listeners packed in on all sides. Most nights offer three sets starting from 7, so, except for the occasional short wait on a crowded night, you can squeeze in almost anytime. The music ranges from the most traditional to the very innovative. Many players have a monthly slot and know the club well enough to get right into the relaxed-yet-attentive frame of mind that nourishes creative playing.