I saw 81-year-old Man-chan, along with the plumber, putting up Christmas decorations in the park next to the ferry port. This is the third year Man-chan has headed up this Christmas illumination project with the help of the plumber who puts up the Christmas lights. Each year the display expands — an extra reindeer here, an additional Santa statue there.

Last year, the illuminated Christmas tree was 6 meters tall; this year it is 13 meters. The triangular frame is made of bamboo and laced with fancy lights and decorations, complete with a large lighted star on top.

"I made all the decorations myself," says the plumber. He has reason to be proud. There are a dozen lighted fixtures on the tree in shapes of bicycles, snow flakes, shooting stars, angels and Santa-san. Rows and rows of lights are strung up and down the tree.