My earliest memories of Honolulu include my introduction to Japanese food; it had not yet become a cuisine. It was at a tiny Waikiki restaurant where each day a cook created four or five special lunches on two gas burners. One was for sauteing and frying, the other for simmering, steaming and warming. Piled-up pans were rotated as needed, and everything that was served from them was delicious.
Other memories during my recent Hawaiian vacation were of tree-lined paths now replaced by shopping arcades and fastfood outlets. Yet nothing can destroy the magic of the varicolored surf and sandy beaches with a distant view of Diamond Head. I was spending my final two days at the Halekulani, once a series of bungalows with shaded walks leading to the beach. Now they, too, are a memory, reflected, perhaps, in the steep-pitched roofs at various levels of the two low high-rise Halekulani towers. Now there are many new hotels along the beach but they cannot reproduce the Halekulani's quiet efficiency and gracious service. The hotel's premier restaurant, La Mer, is renowned for its imaginative but not overstated blend of French/Pacific techniques and flavors for one of Honolulu's most distinctive menus. A favorite sunset choice is the outdoor Room Without a Key, with Hawaiian music and hula dancers. The rest I will leave for you to discover for yourself. For additional information or to make reservations, call the Tokyo office of the Leading Hotels of the World, (03) 5210-5131, fax (03) 5210-3805, or in Hawaii call 923-2311.
There is a nice story about the beaches of Waikiki. In an earlier day, a boy wanted to swim at one of those beautiful beaches. He was told that it was private; he could not swim there. Not fair, he thought. He did not forget. He specialized in law and later led the movement to open beaches to the public for all to enjoy. Now pathways between luxury hotels lead to the public beaches of Hawaii.