A reader writes about the Saturday edition of The Japan Times and how much she appreciates the listing of what's going on in our city. She especially enjoyed Robert Yellin's Feb. 13 article about Nezu Museum and its current exhibition revealing the elegance of traditional sake drinking, the sake cups and the serving containers, many with long histories and crafted by potters from famous kilns in Japan and other countries as well, mainly China and Korea. She could better appreciate what she was seeing because of his review.

However, she enjoyed more than the exhibition. She hasn't been in Japan long, but she saw more beautiful kimono that day than she saw even during shrine and temple visits during the annual New Year's celebration, and she wonders if women always dress so traditionally when they go to Nezu Museum -- and who is/was Nezu?. She was also surprised to find the extensive garden, with winding paths, streams, teahouses and stone carvings, a pleasant retreat from the surrounding busy streets of Aoyama. She recommends the teahouse overlooking the garden as a pleasant place to extend your visit with some light refreshments.

However, she was baffled by something she saw. She knows about Japan's winter-wrapped trees, which rather look like families of straw people standing together, nodding their straw heads as they converse. She has heard the straw wrappings protect trees from insects. However, she would not call them cute. What she saw there were, indeed, cute: groups of three little straw people with fringed hats throughout the garden. Since they were about 30 cm tall, they couldn't be covering trees. So why were they there?

This prompted my own trip to Nezu. They are, indeed, cute, but I had to ask why they are there. Perhaps they are best described as insect shelters. They make comfortable and warm homes for insects during the cold winter months. It is not that the museum is especially hospitable to bugs, but by coaxing them into their own residences, they stay away from the trees. I will not tell you the fate that awaits them in the spring, except to assure you they won't be around to attack the budding leaves. One could also note that they are ecologically friendly; no chemical poisons or unattractive, nonbiodegradable containers.

Oh yes. Art collector Chiro Nezu was the founder of the Tobu railroad and department store enterprises. The kimono? Friends gathered that day to wish Chief Curator Hiroko Nishida a happy birthday. Nishida-san has instituted a number of unusual programs, often in English, at the museum. This was one of the first museums here to introduce a gift shop. The nearest subway station is Omotesando; call (03) 3400-2536 for information.

Perhaps she would like a suggestion for today's tour: Toshogu Shrine in Ueno Park where the winter peonies will be blooming until mid-March. Usually, peonies bloom during Golden Week, although you can see them throughout the year in paintings and worked into designs on porcelains and lacquerware. Each plant blooms within its own little straw shelter. Those who went on the day it snowed had a rare sight -- snow piled high on the roofs with a few flakes sifting through to the petals below. There is a stand serving tea and sake, whichever best fits your persuasion. Perhaps you will be inspired to write a poem. It is the proper setting.

Toshogu Shrine, at the end of a lantern-lined walk, has two carved guardian dragons. In Edo times, people wondered why each morning they were dripping with water. It was discovered that after dark they would race down the hill to Shinobazu Pond where they would play in the water until dawn, when they would hurry back to their duties. This was considered improper behavior for shrine dragons so they were enclosed in wire netting to keep them properly placed. Poor little dragons. Now they only get wet when it rains.

For yet one more memorable experience, include the Traditional Craft Festival at Prism Hall next to Korakuen Dome from Feb. 25 to March 1. Japan makes no separation of arts and crafts; both produce treasures. This is a rare chance to see the best and to meet the people who carry on traditions while adapting their products to contemporary life.