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Stephanie Gartelman
For Stephanie Gartelman's latest contributions to The Japan Times, see below:
LIFE / Travel
Dec 1, 1999
Cheeky gods, mystic mountains
A forested haven with deep gorges and countless mountain shrines, how could Takachiho not be a home for the gods? Legend has it that the sun goddess Amaterasu once hid her light from the world in a cave here, and that nearby Kirishima is where demigod Ninigi no Mikoto descended from heaven to earth. Takachiho has long been associated with the mythic beginnings of Japan.
LIFE / Travel
Nov 17, 1999
Voices of stone in the Oita mountains
Deep in a quiet valley northeast of Kyushu's Mount Aso lies the town of Innai, its central river filled with an absurdly picturesque number of stone bridges. I first read about the town and its equally fascinating surroundings a few years ago, but only recently made the long drive there, a stunning descent through the craggy shoulders of Kyushu's central volcanic mountains.
LIFE / Travel
Nov 3, 1999
Autumn leaves and legends of Kyushu's farthest mountains
GOKANOSHO, Kumamoto Pref. -- The tiny community of Gokanosho (made up of five hamlets, hence its name) is virtually in the center of Kyushu. Draw an imaginary semicircle arching inland from the Kumamoto-Hitoyoshi expressway, and Gokanosho will be in the middle.
LIFE / Travel
Oct 6, 1999
Fall in Kyushu unique after all
AKIZUKI, Fukuoka Pref. -- "Japan," I am frequently informed, with looks of grave importance, "has four seasons." I always wonder if I should feign amazement at this fact, or be silly and ask whether this is because Japan is an island country and all foreigners hate natto. But I can never be told enough about how to enjoy the seasons in Japan.
LIFE / Travel
Sep 22, 1999
Good things come in Iki packages
Iki Island, administratively part of Nagasaki Prefecture but located in the straits between Fukuoka and Korea, has some of the finest white sand beaches in Kyushu.

Longform

When trying to trace your lineage in Japan, the "koseki" is the most important form of document you'll encounter.
Climbing the branches of a Japanese family tree