GOKANOSHO, Kumamoto Pref. -- The tiny community of Gokanosho (made up of five hamlets, hence its name) is virtually in the center of Kyushu. Draw an imaginary semicircle arching inland from the Kumamoto-Hitoyoshi expressway, and Gokanosho will be in the middle.

The area is known for its deep forests, steep mountain ravines, splendid autumn foliage, all making for good hiking on its mountain trails. Admire the long, tumbling Sendan-Todoro Waterfall, the historic houses Zozake and Ogatake, and the museum Gokanosho Heike-no-Sato. Camp or stay the night at a local ryokan and feast on mountain trout, mushrooms, and soba noodles. Continue to historic Yabe town, or another hike, the next day.

It's possible to visit Gokanosho in one day from Kyushu's main cities, but only with an early start and a late return. You'll have to drive. Part of the reason for the area's unspoiled beauty is that there are few roads leading here, only a handful of tourist facilities, and no public transport.