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Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 4, 2010

Incanto weaves its enchantment

Anyone with the nose, the nous and the drive to become a certified sommelier has our respect. But to gain that certification in Italy — in Italian, when your native tongue is Japanese . . . That demands the greatest admiration.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 16, 2010

Noka no Daidokoro: A fresh future for healthy dining

We have seen the future. It's a bright, cheerful place, where farmers are heroes and everyone munches on raw food. There are posters and didactic messages everywhere, and the enthusiasm seems almost otaku. Welcome to Noka no Daidokoro (Farmhouse Kitchen), the taste of things to come.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 19, 2010

Happy returns for two French chefs in Tokyo

We're always sad when a top restaurant shuts down, but we were especially disappointed when we heard that the Michelin two-star Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo had closed its bijou doors last year. As one of the world's most brilliant chefs, Gagnaire's exquisite cuisine would seem a perfect match for Tokyo's...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 5, 2010

A16: Brick Square is hip

Spring may not be here for real just yet, but it's never too early to celebrate the first al fresco lunch of the year. So when last week's unseasonably warm spell arrived we knew exactly where to go — into the heart of the city, to grab an outside table at A16.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 5, 2010

Echire Maison du Beurre: Butter boutique continues to draw in the crowds at the Marunouchi Brick Square

With two dozen restaurants, bars and cafes over three floors, Marunouchi Brick Square was a hit right from its opening last October. But the biggest buzz and the longest lines have been at one of the smallest shops in the complex: Echire Maison de Beurre, the first specialist butter boutique in the city....
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 19, 2010

Yoshicho: Stellar yakitori down in Gotanda

The idea of gourmet yakitori is nothing new. There are plenty of restaurants around town where the humble art of skewering and grilling chicken has been elevated to a degree of sophistication. But you don't expect to find it in the back streets of Gotanda, just north of Shinagawa.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 5, 2010

Kamikozawa-tei: Shabu-shabu in modernist mode

There's no finer way to eat on a chilly winter evening than sitting around a bubbling nabe hot pot. No matter what the ingredients — meat, fish, tofu or vegetables — just cooking and eating from the same communal casserole is nourishment for both body and soul.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 8, 2010

Other soba houses to discover in Kamakura

Kamakura has no shortage of good soba restaurants. Like Matsubara-an, many occupy freestanding traditional buildings. Here are three more worth tracking down on a visit to the ancient capital.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 18, 2009

Ryugin: Refined flair in the dragon's lair

It's that season once again, when we pause, look back and savor some of the outstanding meals we have enjoyed over the past year. High on that list has to be going back to eat at Ryugin last month.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 6, 2009

Tempura Uoshin: A masterclass at the counter

Tradition, craftsmanship, and understated refinement. These are attributes expected of any place serving traditional Japanese cuisine of a certain quality. When it comes to tempura, those same values are every bit as important.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 16, 2009

Tapas Molecular Bar: Elevated dining at a molecular level

Test-tube "caviar," froths and foams and taste-teasing flavor infusions, miracle fruit and desserts "cooked" at super-chilled temperatures. . . . Welcome to the brave new world of contemporary cuisine commonly known as molecular gastronomy.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 2, 2009

Norabo: Perfectly simple seasonal cuisine

Returning from any trip out of the country, it's always Japanese food that we crave. No need for anything fancy: hand-chopped soba at the neighborhood noodle shop will do us fine, or perhaps a few charcoal-grilled skewers of chicken at our local yakitori counter. This time, though, having been away for...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 18, 2009

Taketomijima: Southern comfort Okinawan style

Everybody loves Okinawa. Japan's southernmost prefecture boasts sun-kissed beaches, coral reefs, an easy-going lifestyle and a culture unlike anywhere else in the country. These days, the islands and their distinctive cuisine enjoy a certain hip cachet; this has not always been the case.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 7, 2009

Surf Kamakura's spicy Asian turf

A chilled bottle of Singha beer forms a ring of condensation on the table. The heady aromas of fried garlic, lemongrass and curry spices waft from the kitchen in the corner of the wooden hut. Two waitresses gossip in Thai.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 3, 2009

Enoteca inspiration brings wine and food for Italophiles

Blink and you're likely to miss Enoteca Cricca as you walk past. It's one of those diminutive hole-in-the-wall restaurants that Tokyo does so well. With a low-budget, rustic interior — whitewashed walls, exposed brick and lots of simple, hand-finished woodwork — it's clearly a labor of love and enthusiasm....
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 3, 2009

Coolie's Creek: Up in the Paradise down by the creek

Coolie's Creek: What a great name for a Chinese restaurant. OK, it may not be the most politically correct moniker, but when you get there you know it feels absolutely right.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 17, 2009

Cafe Hai: MOT goes Vietnamese

It's always a pleasure to visit the Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (MOT) out in Koto Ward. The surrounding park is calm, the architecture of the museum exemplary, and the exhibitions invariably well curated.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 17, 2009

Kemuri: Smoking up in Kanda-Sudacho

There are half a dozen compelling reasons for heading to Kanda-Sudacho. The small pocket of back streets that survived the firebombs of World War II and — so far — the ravages of high-rise development is home to some of the city's most venerable restaurants.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 20, 2009

Bruschetta, beer — this must be northern Italy

Great news. Stefano Fastro, owner-patron- chef of one of our favorite Italian restaurants, Kagurazaka's inimitable Ristorante Stefano, has just opened a new place. Better news yet, it's not a spinoff or an attempt to duplicate his original operation. In fact, it's completely different in feel, although...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 20, 2009

Brusca: Bruschetta, beer — this must be northern Italy

Great news. Stefano Fastro, owner-patron- chef of one of our favorite Italian restaurants, Kagurazaka's inimitable Ristorante Stefano, has just opened a new place. Better news yet, it's not a spinoff or an attempt to duplicate his original operation. In fact, it's completely different in feel, although...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 20, 2009

Japan meets Jamaica: ital soba in Tokyo

What is it about handmade noodles, young chefs, minuscule restaurants and hard-to-find locations? Here's another highly idiosyncratic craft-noodle shop that opened recently, which is every bit as hard to find as Nemuri-an.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 20, 2009

Asahi: Japan meets Jamaica: ital soba in Tokyo

What is it about handmade noodles, young chefs, minuscule restaurants and hard-to-find locations? Here's another highly idiosyncratic craft-noodle shop that opened recently, which is every bit as hard to find as Nemuri-an.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 20, 2009

Nemuri-an: Austere, obscure, entirely Japanese

At the recent Tokyo Taste World Gastronomy Summit, the super-chefs assembled at Tokyo International Forum paid fulsome homage to Japan and its influence on their own creative vision. Their well-honed, technologically enhanced presentations were leavened throughout with buzzwords such as dashi soup stock,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 6, 2009

A gastronomic treat

Chef alert! The big guns of global gastronomy are coming to town. The occasion is a convocation being held next week grandly titled "Tokyo Taste — the World Summit of Gastronomy 2009."
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 23, 2009

The Majestic: Tasty dips for a Majestic Tet

From Halong Bay to the Mekong Delta, the flowers, fireworks and festive clothes are being readied: Soon the fun and feasting will begin. China and its vast diaspora may make the most noise at Lunar New Year, but it's no less of a big deal in Vietnam.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 19, 2008

Volo Cosi: Northern Tokyo's top- notch Italian

Another year of eating our way around Tokyo draws to its well-fed conclusion. We have dined well in 2008 — we invariably do, of course — with many memorable evenings and lunches spent at the table. Among the highlights was finally making our way to Volo Cosi.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 21, 2008

Ebisu Yokocho: Bright lights, retro style

Times are tough, money's too tight to mention, the recession is biting and credit is crunching. Red ink is the new black. Doom-and-gloom mongering is back in vogue.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 3, 2008

Mikura Ginza Honten: It's Kyoto kaiseki, but not as you know it

[Note: Mikura Ginza Honten has closed.]
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 19, 2008

Maison de la Bourgogne: A fine bistro life in Kagurazaka

At long last it's safe to come out from under the air conditioning. The heat has finally broken, our appetites have perked up, and there are some long, balmy evenings ahead — perfect for some leisurely outdoor dining.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 15, 2008

Heading to the pubs for beer and bangers

For lovers of good beer, the major event of the spring was the opening of the Nakameguro Taproom. No ordinary pub, Taproom is the Tokyo outlet for Baird beers, the craft brewery in Shizuoka Prefecture that many people — and the Food File, too — rate among the best in the country.

Longform

Sumadori Bar on Shibuya Ward's main Center Gai street targets young customers who prefer low-alcohol drinks or abstain altogether.
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