Looks can deceive: Torishiki's carefully lit exterior is as charcoal-gray as the grills on which its chicken is cooked, giving off a classier vibe than one might usually associate with a yakitori restaurant. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON
In the right hands, the simple act of grilling skewers of chicken over glowing coals of charcoal produces one of the supreme delicacies of Japanese cuisine, well worthy of a such a tasteful setting. Those hands belong to yakitori maestro Yoshiteru Ikegawa.
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