Restaurants / Restaurant Guide

Moriwaki

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Review excerpt: Opened in 2014, the restaurant is nearly as long as it is narrow. Its counter seats six, and is angled parallel to the street. Behind the counter, in the narrowest of kitchens, Moriwaki and his staff of two move wordlessly as the concert of cooking and serving plays out. For lunch there are two prix fixe options priced ¥3,500 and ¥5,500. I opted for the latter, which opened with genmai (brown rice) soup, a palate cleanser. It’s only nominally a soup, but it prepares your taste buds. This was quickly followed by the first fish dish: hamo (conger eel) served with a thin wedge of crispy lotus root in a gelatinous, slightly vinegary dashi. A pale yellow (and edible) okra leaf added a dash of color. It was a refreshing and light late-summer dish.

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