As a wine region, Hokkaido sometimes draws comparisons to east-central France’s Burgundy. Both locations offer a mild climate and rolling hills — conditions theoretically ideal for growing pinot noir and chardonnay, the iconic grapes of Burgundy that are increasingly cultivated in this northern part of Japan.

Hokkaido’s wine promoters occasionally claim their bottles rival those of Burgundy, a statement that, for now, is hyperbole.

What isn’t exaggerated is the rise of Hokkaido as a winemaking frontier. From just a few wineries concentrated in Yoichi in the 2000s, the prefecture now has more than 60 producers. In comparison, Yamanashi Prefecture — Japan’s winemaking heart — is home to more than 90 wineries, while Nagano Prefecture, the country’s second-largest wine region, counts over 80.