In the middle of Good Wood Terrace, a plastic film covers Kanye West’s signature and a pair of doodles the American rapper drew on a pillar in the middle of the restaurant. A handful of other scribbles sit underneath, but they aren’t protected — perhaps more than the food, the graffiti is the main draw.
It’s also a reminder of how West — legally now known as Ye — has become this year’s most buzzed-about Tokyo resident. He has long been fascinated by Japanese culture and is a constant visitor to the capital, but at some point a few months ago rumors emerged that he was now living here. You’d imagine he’d want to get out of the spotlight back home following several years of high-profile scandals, topped off by Ye delivering antisemitic remarks on conspiracy theorist Alex Jones’ internet talk show.
Tokyoites haven’t been focusing on anything Ye has been saying since arriving, rather they’ve been watching where he goes. His presence in the capital resembles that of a mythical animal — a “Ye-ti” if you will — captured via random sightings.
“My friend just had a little chat with Kanye West at a McDonald’s in Tokyo,” one user on X posted, along with a photo of the rapper and his wife, Bianca Censori, standing in front of a self-order kiosk. Elsewhere he’s been spotted walking the streets of Omotesando, frequenting fancy watering holes like Gold Bar and apparently watching Outkast member Andre 3000 play the flute at Blue Note Tokyo.
One food-related spot renowned for Ye sightings is Good Wood Terrace. Tucked away on a sidestreet in Shibuya’s Dogenzaka area, it’s a Jamaican spot flush with vegetation and a steady stream of reggae covers of Western pop songs. (On my visit, I’m greeted by a laid-back interpretation of LeAnn Rimes’ 1997 hit “How Do I Live.”) Good Wood Terrace is purported to be Ye’s favorite restaurant in Tokyo, and he’s visited multiple times — a fact the owners have been sure to highlight on the restaurant’s Instagram.
Japanese users of X have become fascinated with Good Wood after Ye’s visit, with many visiting to try it out themselves (as documented on Good Wood’s own account). If you were to craft a “Kanye Tour of Tokyo,” the marquee meal would happen here.
Is it worth it? Should one man, let alone Ye, have so much culinary power?
My first attempt at going on a Friday night last month proves futile — Good Wood is packed full despite it being 10 p.m. Is this the Kanye effect or just a late dinner crowd? I try again when the restaurant opens at 11:30 a.m. on a Tuesday, getting a seat for lunch service with a great view of the Ye signature. The pillar offers a peek at another celebrity endorsement that might actually be more telling: a signed uniform from the Jamaican men’s Olympic running team, including Usain Bolt.
The lunch menu offers a more simplified selection of what Good Wood cooks up, but the key dishes are present. You can order jerk chicken or pork, served as a plate or over rice. Despite Ye’s endorsement, the prices are extremely reasonable, with the jerk chicken plate — served with soup, salad, beans and rice — costing only ¥980 and pork taking it up another ¥100. (Add a drink for an extra ¥300.)
Once the orders are placed, Good Wood gets smokey as the cooks grill up the chicken and pork. It smells fantastic, though it can also get so strong that it’s tough not to cough. My chicken arrives blackened and crispy, boasting a nice outer crunch and pleasant spice. The inside, though, is tender, making for a lovely contrast and one of the best takes on the Jamaican dish you can hope for in the capital.
I had come here to stare at a wall signed by a rapper in exile, but I left having discovered a tasty lunch spot in Shibuya serving up a dish that isn’t easy to find in Japan.
For the first time since “The Life Of Pablo,” I can say that I’m glad I listened to Ye.
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