In praise of Gyomu Super, a gem of Japanese grocery shopping

Japan is famous for its convenience stores, and the foods there are fast and easy. But nutritious? Not so much.

The ideal would be to buy all our foods from specialists and, admittedly, Japan is still a good place to find such niche purveyors: baked goods from bakeries, fish from fishmongers, meat from butchers, and fruits and vegetables from greengrocers, where, in season, you find fresh produce from the prefectures they are mainly grown. The system is perfect — until you factor in the time and money it takes.

We all think we’re being efficient when we do “a big shop” at a supermarket. The issue here is the business model — have you ever noticed the price volatility of big chain stores? The prices of certain products can differ wildly from day to day. You may think you’re getting a deal when that head of broccoli goes on sale, but those daily specials are often what is known as “loss leaders.” Supermarkets take a hit on one product to get you through the front door, but other prices are inflated to make sure that the company always comes out on top. You’re being gouged, but behavioral models show that an average customer will continue shopping in a store after procuring some bargains even if other prices are inflated.

Supermarkets are still the most convenient place for most of us to source fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy, meat and fish. For everything else, there is a great alternative to the center aisles: Gyomu Super.

The giant green signs of this supermarket chain can be slightly intimidating, and with a name that translates to something like “commercial supermarket,” you might assume Gyomu is just a restaurant supply chain (and you wouldn’t be too wrong, at least so far as the chain’s origin story). That said, casual shoppers are welcome in-store especially if you’re trying to squeeze some more value out of your hard-earned yen.

The first Gyomu Super open to the public appeared in Hyogo Prefecture in March 2000. As of 2021, there was a Gyomu Super in all of Japan’s 47 prefectures, and there are now 1,050 stores nationwide. Gyomu does not run sale promotions or daily specials, though some products nearing their use-by dates are discounted. Rather, the business model is to cut out the wholesalers, with the store directly importing many goods itself and increasingly having its own production brands.

There are no loss leaders at Gyomu, and while inflation on imported foodstuffs is inevitable, I can anecdotally attest to prices remaining relatively flat. As a direct importer, Gyomu is a particularly good place to find foreign snacks and sweets, along with a vast array of the building blocks for many world cuisines, from Asian sauces to a wide selection of halal and Mediterranean foods. Below are a few of my own shopping staples:

Why slice and smoke your own chicken when Gyomu has done it for you? | SIMON DALY

Sliced smoked chicken (800 grams, ¥999)

This pre-sliced chicken breast is a domestically produced offering. Salty and smoky, it lasts well kept cold and is a perfect sandwich filler, though it can be eaten as a beer snack or as part of a charcuterie board. Combined with white sauce and vegetables, it also takes some of the work out of making filling for a homemade chicken pot pie.

The pre-sliced onion saute is an easy way to cut one tedious step out of a recipe. | SIMON DALY

Onion saute (500 grams, ¥300)

Cutting and frying onions can be a tedious chore in many recipes. Gyomu’s onions, however, are fried to the point of light caramelization and deliciously sweet and savory. Perfect for adding to stews or curries, they’re also a great addition to homemade meat patties or croquettes.

You can find fresher raspberries elsewhere, but Gyomu's frozen selection is a worthwhile compromise. | SIMON DALY

Raspberries (500 grams, ¥645)

As a quick addition to a morning smoothie or for sweets later in the day, this larger-than-usual bag of frozen fruit is incredibly convenient. Add a little powdered sugar as they defrost for a quick coulis, or add to muffins or baked cheesecakes for an unrivaled burst of fruitiness.

Chickpeas (400 grams, ¥127)

Available in cans or larger pouches, chickpeas are incredibly versatile. Fry or bake them until crispy for a crunchy salad topper. Add to curries or dahl, or rustic dishes like pasta e ceci or capunti, or use as the base for homemade hummus, flavored with tahini, which is also available at Gyomu.

Preserved lemon paste (185 grams, ¥300)

This lemon paste packs an umami punch. Add to salad dressings or marinades for a zesty infusion. If you have been reading my recipes for a while, you may recall one for preserved lemon butter mochi (rice cake). While I made my own paste for the final recipe, I used Gyomu’s for testing.

Buying chocolate en masse for big recipes can be costly, but this pack takes the sting out of the bill. | SIMON DALY

Dark chocolate (400 grams, ¥581)

If you’ve ever tried to make a chocolate dessert, you’ll know how frustrating it is to have to buy multiple small packs of the stuff. This large pack of Belgian chocolate is plenty for cakes, chocolate salami or chocolate-dipped strawberries for your next romantic evening.

Gyomu has a wide selection of seasonings that go beyond the usual Japanese pantry. | SIMON DALY

Salt & vinegar seasoning (85 grams, ¥181) and sour cream seasoning (69 grams, ¥181)

Just sprinkle onto homemade potato chips or fries and you’re in for a treat. Feeling adventurous? Try some on karaage fried chicken or even chicken wings for a talking point for your next party.