“Gateau” is one of those words we use when we want to sound fancy. Evoking elaborate construction and delicate decoration, the term simply means “cake.” Humble gateaux exist more than you might imagine, especially once you venture beyond city patisseries and into countryside farmhouses.
Outstretched into the North Atlantic, Brittany is the northwesternmost corner of mainland France. The cuisine of the region revolves around quality ingredients instead of gaudy garnishes — buckwheat flour galettes, for example, folded so that the delicious filling is hidden away from view. Though unseen, the constituent parts are most definitely evident in the eating.
Gateau Breton takes the simplest of shortcakes (almost shortbread) and cunningly bakes it with a surprise layer sandwiched within: dried fruit with alcohol or sometimes thick jam. My version has black sesame paste with kokutō black sugar for deep flavor and color contrast, plus walnuts as a simple, seasonal and textural element. Contrary to what you might expect, this gateau is unleavened and sans baking powder, yeast or egg whites. Instead, it is rich and heavy with yolks and butter.