It’s been a rollercoaster year for Tokyo’s chefs. They welcomed 2020 on a high, many of them booked solid for months ahead and expecting even more international custom in this much-anticipated Olympic year. Now all they’re seeing at their doors is tumbleweed.
Spare a thought especially for Yusuke Namai. Since opening his restaurant, Ode, in September 2017, his stylish, innovative — but always accessible — French cuisine has won him accolades and a legion of admirers, both in Japan and, increasingly, abroad.
In March, Ode was named No. 35 on the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. But the awards ceremony was canceled, and Namai’s delight was tempered by hearing the announcement from a prerecorded video livestreamed to a half-empty Tokyo hotel room.