Food & Drink | TOKYO FOOD FILE

The SG Club: Where the curry is as creative as the cocktails

by Robbie Swinnerton

Contributing Writer

Sometimes genius rears its head in the unlikeliest of guises. Or perhaps it’s only to be expected that two of the most creative curry recipes in recent memory have been dreamed up by one of Tokyo’s most innovative cocktail specialists, Shingo Gokan.

You’ll find them on the new lunch menu at The SG Club, his award-winning bar, now a year old, in Shibuya. One is called Mala; the other Mole. The first is Sichuan inspired, a pork keema curry with root vegetables and plenty of hua jiao (Sichuan pepper) to give that tongue-numbing mala effect. The other is Mexican-influenced: a rich, thick chicken curry infused with cacao and dark, savory Hatcho miso.

If it’s too hard to choose between them, ask for the two-in-one (¥1,600). Whichever way, your curry comes adorned with a sliver of crisp papadum and cheese, pickled egg or black garlic as optional extras. And as a final touch, it’s given a short, sharp spritz of spirit — mescal for the Mole; absinthe on the Mala (and both for the two-in-one) — blowtorched to burn off the alcohol (and make it safe to go back to the office).

During bar time, some light bites are served, though no curry. But it’s worth checking The SG Club Instagram feed as there are monthly collaborations with local chefs.

Set curries from ¥1,300; English menu; some English spoken

GET THE BEST OF THE JAPAN TIMES
IN FIVE EASY PIECES WITH TAKE 5