For a new, high-end restaurant with a young, unsung chef, Abysse certainly has picked a less-than-obvious location. From the nearest subway station, Gaienmae, the walk takes you down winding backstreets and up a flight of stone steps into the heart of residential Aoyama. Print out a map, open up your GPS or hire a guide — it’s definitely worth the expedition.

Not that the address will be new to Tokyo’s seasoned gastronauts: Abysse has taken over the elegant, comfortable little dining room formerly occupied by Florilege before it decamped to Harajuku. That, however, is a double-edged sword. It means there is already an established and well-heeled customer base who know the space, many of whom live in the area. On the other hand, Florilege is a very hard act to follow.

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