It would be absolutely inaccurate to call Tetsuya Saotome a maverick. But within the traditional, buttoned-down world of tempura chefs, he certainly stands out as an individualist.
Over the course of 30 years at Mikawa, his cozy little restaurant in Kayabacho, he carved out a citywide reputation for quality and outstanding value. While other places added frills and frivolous ingredients — ice-cream tempura was a favorite party trick at many — Saotome was happy to hew to the centuries-old traditional values.
Even as his reputation spread among local cognoscenti, he resolutely kept Mikawa's simple, hands-on, homespun ambience (see side box). Seven years ago, he did seize the chance to expand, opening a sleeker (though little larger) branch in Roppongi Hills. However, he sent his chief lieutenant to run it, rather than sever his own connection with his shitamachi (low city) base.