The sake world is looking greener as an increasing number of producers invest more time and resources in developing organic lines. In 2004, Niigata-based giant Kikusui attracted attention for opening the Sake Culture Institute, an immaculate facility dedicated to organic sake research, and small producers around the country are also doing their bit for the environment and local community.

For Takashi Aoshima, master brewer and president of Aoshima Shuzo, the idea is nothing new. The company produced its first organic sake in 1997, shortly after Aoshima came home and took over the family business. After four years in New York, he gave up his position as a currency exchange specialist at securities firm Nomura — against the advice of his father — to become a sake-maker.

Aoshima knew from the start that he wanted to make organic sake.