On the edge of autumn, vineyards are heavy with fruit. In the late afternoon, the air turns cool. The weeks before harvest are one of the most beautiful times of year to visit wineries. And you need not fly overseas for the experience.

In recent years, quality-conscious winemakers have been producing fine wines throughout Japan. Yet mention of this development often meets with skepticism.

Most consumers encounter Japanese wine mainly in omiyage (souvenir) shops. Bottles of brilliant crimson, pink or orange-colored wine are shelved next to gift packs of rice crackers and bean-paste sweets. The taste of such wines is generally reminiscent of sherbet, and they are perhaps best enjoyed as a marinade for fruit salad.