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It’s all too easy to take for granted a restaurant of the caliber of Les Saisons. Ensconced within the venerable portals of the Imperial Hotel, it is plush, self-assured and runs with the same effortless reliability as a well-tuned Bentley sports car. You just know that an evening at table is going to be wonderful (it always is) but, inevitably, within a conservative, patrician frame of reference.

This is why it is so exciting that, as one of the Imperial’s 110th anniversary events, Les Saisons has invited chef Eric Frechon from Paris to take over the culinary reins for a special season. Granted, Frechon comes direct from the kitchens of Le Bristol, a hotel with even more heavyweight history than the Imperial itself. But he is also one of the most talked about young generation chefs in the French capital.

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