Simply listening to Juliette Binoche talk about Japanese food is like having front-row seats to an award-winning performance. "I love soba, I could eat it every day," she says, drawing the word "love" out luxuriantly.

The French actress is explaining her love of Japan, which, it seems, has only grown since her first visit here 35 years ago. Food has been a powerful part of this, the very thought of Japanese cuisine sending her into raptures.

Binoche is surprised but amused when I reveal that, even after 20 years in Japan, I don't quite share her enthusiasm.