Like a femme fatale, Art Nouveau has long guarded her secrets well. Were her sinuous lines symbolic or erotic? Did she bring fresh beauty into the modern world, or exploit a fin de siecle taste for the decadent? And why did she suddenly disappear, after a rapid rise to fame?

Embroidered panel by Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, Glasgow School of Art Collection
Color lithograph by Alphonse Mucha, Victoria and Albert Museum
Design from Oscar Wilde's "Salome," by Aubrey Beardsley, Victoria and Albert Museum

There are many small collections of Emile Galle or Rene Lalique glassware in Japan, but there has never been anything as enlightening as the ravishing new exhibition of Art Nouveau from London's Victoria and Albert Museum. A superb selection of 260 items of furniture, jewelry, glass, ceramics, textiles, sculpture, graphics and even an original entrance from the Paris Metro, it takes the visitor from the seeds of the movement, through its extraordinary blossoming, to its sudden demise in 1914. It is the largest exhibition of such work since millions discovered the "new art" at world fairs in Paris, Turin, St. Louis and so on at the dawn of the 20th century.

Then, Art Nouveau meant revolution. Its fundamental creed was that life and art in modern society should be one. New art meant a clean break from the endless "rehash of ancient things" promoted by the establishment. As Charles Rennie Mackintosh said, it would emancipate artists from "stupid forms of education, which stifles the intellect, paralyzes the ambition and kills the emotion." Belgian architect Henri Van de Velde, in his manifesto of 1899, talked passionately of a "purifying art" and insisted that the politically and commercially motivated division of art into fine and decorative hierarchies must end in the new century.

But the old guard was hard to convince. The first time the Victoria and Albert Museum exhibited their collection, soon after buying it at the Paris World Fair of 1900, there were so many howls of protest about this "decorative disease" that it was put away for 80 years.

Now, at last, we can see the objects, and the movement, in perspective.

Eastern threads

Although it has often been described as a wild detour from the straight march of art history, the first galleries open our eyes. With a few choice pieces, part one of the exhibition traces the influence of Rococo, Islamic, Folk, Celtic and Oriental art. While looking for a truly new way, artists, like magpies, picked up bright ideas wherever they could.

In the Rococo section, for example, there is a surprisingly direct line between 1750 and 1900. Here, a lacquer commode worthy of Versailles stands near an enchanting mahogany desk by Louis Majorelle. Both have asymmetrical, twisting decoration, but the later piece, with marsh marigolds climbing up its legs, is undeniably modern and fresh.

Similar surprises appear in the Islamic section, where 14th-century mosque decorations shed light on early 20th-century works by Galle and Carlo Bugatti.

In northern Europe, spectacular finds of Viking and Celtic treasures inspired artists such as England's Archibald Knox. And for the first time, reflecting the growth of international trade and communications, a European art movement was deeply influenced by the East.

Suddenly, we see a Chinese jade carving of a fruit as a European artist of 1890 might have seen it: somewhere in the tantalizing dimension between soft and hard, animal and vegetable, mineral and flesh.

But of all the exotic influences, Japan's was the most profound. At one level this was purely visual, as we can see from the quality of the kimono, woodblock prints and lacquerwork on display, most of which arrived in Europe in the aftermath of the Meiji Restoration. Here, a sword fitting ingeniously reappears as a Lalique belt buckle, and chrysanthemums and textile motifs turn up on a wonderfully elegant glass vase, again by Galle.

At another level, Japan's influence was spiritual, a telling example of a culture where there were no distinctions between fine and decorative arts. In Japan, they argued, art was not for hanging on the walls of a palace, but something that enriched daily life.

Nature's web

A small section on England, birthplace of the highly influential Arts and Crafts movement, shows the connection between the tapestries of William Morris, the sensuous paintings of Dante Gabriel Rossetti and the earliest pure Art Nouveau imagery. This is credited to the young Aubrey Beardsley, who created a sensation with his illustrations for Oscar Wilde in 1893.

For all its rich variety, two strong undercurrents were symbolism and nature, each given its own section. This was an era of feverish interest in the spirit world, and in the gallery of seductive vampires, smiling gorgons and writhing orchids, it is easy to see why more conservative souls recoiled in horror.

Some of the most beautiful objects are in the Nature section. The orchid jewel by Belgian Philippe Wolfers is a miracle of delicacy, and the Snowy Landscape lamp by the French glassmakers Daum is a lovely response to Japanese aesthetics.

In Europe it was quite new to find beauty in thistles, spiders, snails and frogs. Partly this was the Oriental influence, but it also reflects the city-dweller's new desire for harmony with nature and interest in the theory of evolution.

Throughout the exhibition we can see metamorphoses: plants turning into women and women turning into creatures on the wing. There is even an old film of Loie Fuller, who captivated Parisians with her butterfly dances in 1900.

End of a revolution

Although it was the world's first international art movement, using the new magazines and new department stores such as London's Liberty to market its products, it was far from uniform in style. The second part of the exhibition shows how it evolved differently in five cities that typified the modern age: Paris, Brussels, Glasgow, Vienna and New York. Highlights include the chandelier of Hector Guimard, falling like liquid moonlight, and the dragonfly woman in gold and enamel by Lalique.

Brussels is still a magnet for fans of Art Nouveau architecture, and it is good to turn from individual pieces to photographs of entire buildings and interiors. After all, the ideal was a harmonious design for every aspect of life.

By 1910, Art Nouveau was everywhere. But it was one thing to decorate the streets of Paris with futuristic subway entrances and another to see your aesthetic ideals plastered on biscuit tins. In advanced circles, there was a noticeable shift toward the simpler designs already preferred by Vienna's Joseph Hoffman and Glasgow's Mackintosh.

Although World War I did not kill Art Nouveau, it was a watershed. After the war, and for most of the 20th century, it was heartily despised as overdecorative and, ironically, "old-fashioned." It is touching, then, that the final image is a landscape in stained glass, inset with symbols for alpha and omega, the beginning and the end. This is by Louis Comfort Tiffany, America's leading exponent of the style. Sadly, most of his architectural work has been destroyed. Yet his hovering dragonfly lamps and glimmering vistas remain, hinting at the harmony of art, life and nature that might have been.