Japan is a ceramic paradise, plain and simple.

I tried to explain this to some people back in San Diego a few weeks ago. Most just looked at me like I was some garbanzo bean-eating hippie who thought that Jerry Garcia was God. There are just no criteria for them to understand the significance that ceramics have played in Oriental culture. When I mentioned that whole museums in Japan are devoted to ceramics, some having priceless national treasures, my culturally deprived listeners just shrugged their shoulders and said, "whatever."

To most of them, pro sports is culture.

That "whatever" is indeed a great something, though, and I encourage residents of Japan or visitors to learn more about Japanese ceramics in order to understand more about Japanese culture. It's a bit hard not to notice the array of ceramics that greet you at most meals and a closer look at the fascinating world of Japanese ceramics will also lead you to find out about history, Zen, Tea, wabi and sabi, and the different potting centers that dot Japan.

When viewing a potting exhibition I wonder if people are aware that the finished products took countless hours of intensive labor to make. They're not just "pop in the oven" muffins. There's digging the clay (although many potters buy from clay brokers), processing and wedging, throwing, glazing (if required), loading, firing and unloading the kiln, and then cleaning the finished work. The sweat, toil and spirit of the potter goes into each piece.

When I view a pot in that way, I have a great respect for potters and the commitment that went into the making of a piece. In addition, the energy of the potter working with the natural elements of water, air, clay and fire leaves a piece of pottery with a magical ambience that isn't found in any other art.

In Japan there is really very little of the distinction between art and crafts observed in the West, and for this reason pottery can be more expensive than in other countries. This bewilders some first-time collectors and turns them away from purchasing.

Yet to really understand Japanese pottery one must use it _ whether it be a tea bowl (chawan), a vase (kabin) or a plate (sara). As for payment, I look upon it as a rental fee. I feel that I have the piece for as long as I walk on this glorious earth, and when I pass away the piece will pass into the hands of another.

Now let's say that my time to leave is in 30 years (I'll be 39 on Monday) and I buy a nice tea cup by a well-known potter for 35,000 yen. A simple breakdown of numbers will show that I pay very little over the long term for something that will bring years of pleasure. What a bargain!

In writing this column I get quite a few inquiries on where to view ceramics, so I thought that since this is the slowest month for exhibitions I'd gather up a list that will help you to view contemporary potters' work and perhaps find something that captures your senses and heart.

Most major department stores have good selections and are easy to find, although personally I'd rather patronize a small gallery. Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya always have a few glass cases filled with ceramics, as do Matsuya in Ginza and Odakyu in Shinjuku. Go to their respective art galleries where more often than not you'll also find an individual ceramist's exhibition.

In Tokyo there are dozens of smaller galleries, though, and this list is just the tip of the iceberg.

As regular readers of this column know, I often introduce exhibitions at Shibuya's Kuroda Toen. This small gallery has weekly exhibitions as well as a well-stocked regular space showing dozen of styles such as Bizen, sometsuke, Shino, celadon and Karatsu, among others. I've learned many things there and highly recommend this at-home gallery. Located at 1-16-14 Shibuya. Tel.: (03) 3499-3225.

There is another Kuroda Toen, though, in the Ginza, which is run by a different branch of the Kuroda family. It's not as good as the one in Shibuya, but worth a visit if you happen to be in Ginza: 7-8-6 Ginza; Tel.: (03) 3571- 3223.

Also in the Ginza is Gallery Pousse at 5-14-16 Ginza; Tel.: (03) 5565-3870 and Gallery Ima at 7-17-5 Ginza; Tel.: (03) 3542-5707.

Bizen Gallery Aoyama is a great place for those just getting interested in Bizen. The shop's owner Yoko Kimura, a charming young lady, speaks English very well. Besides Bizen wares a few other styles are usually shown. 5-16-3-203 Minami Aoyama; Tel.: (03) 3797-5417.

Another good Bizen gallery is Shizutani at 1-29-4 Sendagaya; Tel.: (03) 3403-6448.

Near JR Kanda Station is Gallery Kokou at 2-8-7 Kanda; Tel.: (03) 3256-9160.

Suigyoku is a fine gallery located at 2-45-11 Itabashi; Tel.: (03) 3961-8984.

If you're in Meguro-ku try Gallery Midori at 2-11-12 Higashigaoka; Tel.: (03) 5486-3152, Gallery Yamamoto at 3-3-19 Takaban; Tel.: (03) 3794-2202 or Gallery Naganawa; Tel. (03) 3792-3969.

In Nakano-ku at 3-25-11 Nogata is Gallery Ichirin, run by Ms. Suzuki. Tel.: (03) 3387-4588.

As a reminder, many of the above galleries are closed for the Bon holidays. I'll put together another list for those in other regions in the coming months.

One interesting exhibition in Tokyo, on until Aug. 17 at Shinjuku Keio department store's sixth-floor gallery, is a look at some Mingei giants with an emphasis on Shoji Hamada. Also included are pieces by Soetsu Yanagi (calligraphy), Bernard Leach, Kanjiro Kawai, Kenkichi Tomimoto and old Korean furniture.

Finally, Japan Times sake columnist John Gauntner and I will be hosting our fourth sake seminar Aug. 21. The event begins at 6 p.m. and will feature a talk on the finer points of sake by John, while I will talk on the appreciation of sake utensils. For more information, e-mail or send a fax.

Robert Yellin is available to talk to groups or lead tours to potting centers.

E-mail [email protected] or fax to (0559) 26-0302.